Thursday, April 9, 2020

A Crevice Garden in Christchurch, NZ



The largest city on New Zealand’s South Island wraps around a historical and expansive botanic gardens and park, which itself is outlined by the Avon river like the bezel for a jewel.

There is a new curator, Grant, (above) for the rock garden, and the local alpine plant club, NZAGS is eager to aid him in the complex nuances of Rock Gardens. In turn, Grant has an amazing breadth and depth of horticultural knowledge and experience to infuse into his work and the alpine club. The visionary director of the Christchurch Botanic, Wolfgang Bopp (previously of Hiller Garden in the UK) encourages this connection and exchange between serious hobbyist clubs (which are repositories of expertise) and public gardens; a wise move that many botanics don’t make. I liked the guy instantly because he wore a tiny vase as a jacket pin with fresh flowers in it. 

Anyhow, the finest way to solidify a working relationship between club and botanic was with work: to collaborate on a new exhibit  (see link for video, etc) and renovation in the rock garden- which is where I was fortunate enough to play my role as designer/builder for a crevice garden in the Christchurch Botanic. Crevice gardens are relatively few and new in New Zealand, only in the back garden of alpine gardeners like Michael in Lake Tekapo- but not in public gardens yet. 

We took some time determining how to add a bold new feature without it looking out of place, (“Like a pimple” as Wolfgang said- I like that) and honoring the existing design of the rock garden at large. We wound up siting it partway into the middle of a recently renovated heath and heather collection (Erica/Calluna) but with a few “island” beds across a path, and plan for a few to actually bisect the main path and appear within the alpine garden itself across the main path.

A collection of slivered stones has always looked horrible next to massive boulders to me, so this was just the second time ever (this being crevice garden #41 for me) I’d dealt with that- the solution being to create masses and shapes with the small stones that echo the size and character of nearby large stones. Luckily, the new and old stones are also similar in color.  

The alpine plant club, NZAGS blew me away. They were as serious as any Scottish or British club but more diverse in their plant interests, and were my introduction to the indescribable hospitality, humour, level-headedness, craftiness, and hard-working dedication of New Zealanders. I got to know all of them individually on a plant-chasing field trip, so I felt like I had friends in them by the time we worked together on the rock garden. 

What I was not prepared for was that the club would take what they learned from my lecture so quickly and bravely start setting rocks- diving fearlessly headlong into learning a skill that I have admittedly failed to be able to teach people time and time again. But they learned it. Oh yes. It was my job to ensure the garden design was cohesive and that is was structurally sound as well as practical to grow plants in, so I could hardly keep up with them in not only answering their questions while they all fast-tracked their new skill, but also to guiding the character of the garden to maintain a motif that made it look whole and unified. 

Suzanne, above, did some awesome work in and out of the garden- I realized late-game that she's already  written a blog on the project that is better than mine!  Check it out here. I reckon she will build her own and I won't be surprised if she does some innovation no one has done before. 




I have a lot of experience imagining 3-D objects and spaces in the garden setting; I can envision a crevice garden, finished, in my mind, before a project starts. I must- it is my job. But when we swept the sand and dust off of the stones, and washed it off, I was startled by the beauty of what I saw.  Truly, the quality of the detail of the rock work across the installation- thanks to each volunteer- was far better than if I had been left to do it alone and even spent weeks on it.  I was so humbled by watching in real-time: my passing of a baton of my tricks and experiences to not one person, but a group, and watching them sprint off with finesse ahead of me. I had never experienced that kind of synergy even with people I’d paid as staff for years when I had a landscaping business. It was exhausting and it was amazing. I left with my head spinning and my heart exploding. 



Special thanks go to Joe and Ann Cartman, who were the perfect people to answer all the obscure things I wanted to know about the ecology, plants, animals, and people of NZ, and who also took me to see a wonderful case study of the complexity of disturbed ecologies and the resilience of natives. 

Hamish Brown is the current prez of the club who instils a supercharged combo of smoothness and energy into all happenings. He and I were not above hijacking the golf carts at the botanic. I am indebted to him for helping me during my hurried exit from the country to return home due to the virus. His family and growing style deserve an article on their own. 



A bit on crevice gardening in New Zealand: Sand, rock, and climate.
For americans, it’s best to imagine a coastal California or Washington climate- Eucalyptus and pines thrive. Dryness happens more in summer, but proximity to the ocean means dry is never so extreme as the world’s big continents. There is also a mildness of winters and summers that is not unlike the UK.  Of course, the north island is even milder; (reminded me of the Carolinas) and the interior can be drier than the coasts.  Their Mountains- not small things- create some Mediterranean-dry places and valleys almost as cold as Western Colorado- where my familiar landscapes of vineyards and orchards appear.  And of course- the mountains are shouldered with a real montane weather, and peaked with true alpine. 

Local Alpine gardeners have found that good old sand is an ideal growing medium for troughs, raised beds, and mounds, providing enough mineral nutrition without gravel fines, and not fatally drying out in summer. So this is what we used in the crevice garden on top of an old loam. 

The historic Hallswell Quarry, source of our glorious rock.

While sedimentary rock exists around New Zealand, and even a few outcrops of limestone, the place is mostly dominated by volcanic and metamorphic rocks clothed in acidic soil.  The Crevice garden was privileged enough to use the much coveted Halswel stone, which was used historically all over town, but is no longer quarried- the botanic had special permission to gather new stone from the quarry on account of being used to renovate something historical (the rock garden) and that both are council holdings. (The city government manages both the botanic and the quarry as open spaces/parks.)  Someone said our stone is an andesite; it really did feel and sound like a rhyolite I have used in Colorado. It slivers in irregular wedges characteristic of things like related basalt, which is what the large boulders in the rock garden are.  We used most of the 13 tons (12 metric tonnes) that was gathered for it.  


Gotta love that incredible leopard print rind. 



I can't wait to come back in a year or two and see what they plant, how things grow, and what they discover a crevice garden offers to gardening in New Zealand.

Time for a cuppa tea.


Overlooked Native Dandy: the Circus Onion



One of the first wild things to bloom in lowland Western Colorado (aside from Lomatiums) is Allium macropetalum. I still I cannot think of it by any other name than what my friend Trina calls it.

We once dug handfuls of “Circus Onion” from some land to be developed on the north end of town that sits on clay barrens.  A humble little bulb- one of about 4 local desert species of Allium around here. 

(Like A. nevadense, which makes fat dense creampuffs and a single spiral leaf, or A. acuminatum,  which explores the color affinity to highlighter markers) Since then I’ve learned a bit more about this completely ignored native darling.





It grows like a champ in nasty unirrigated clay soil, or even nice garden soil. And multiplies. It leafs out in fall and winter, and blooms for a long period in early April, standing no more than 4” (10cm) tall. They vary from pure white to mostly rose, with most being a striped intermediate. Some are not fragrant, some smell like an outhouse.  But just a few individuals have a heavenly fragrance!  Making those distinctions with your face a few inches above the dusty earth and your hands on the ground is really... special.

We fell in love with it. It multiplies well from year to year and, just as in nature, makes a wonderful, non-competitive, non-aggressive understory bulb to appear before taller plants, showing up to bloom when their successors are barely emerging. They politely and thanklessly fill an empty niche of early native bulbs for the super super dry garden when it is too dry for Muscari, Scilla, Galanthus, species tulips, and the like. While Denver is usually moist enough for the above, it is too dry in or unwatered cactus gardens of the Great Basin. Some of us don’t like to water our cactus gardens because that just means weeding in between all those spines. 

Knowing we’d not have the windfall of just digging up patches of bulbs in future, I tried to propagate them in pots from seed and bulb division.  They hated it. That is to say, they almost died out entirely, so I frantically planted them in the ground to save them. They hated pots. This happens with some truly wild natives- the best ones.  But what also happens is that genetics from a certain population will break the rule. That is why some wonderful natives you could never buy suddenly appear in the nursery one year.  And it turns out that an Allium I gathered in Las Cruces grew up nicely in a pot, bloomed this spring, smells like cat pee, and turns out to be Allium macropetalum- looks like it has a wide range across the mid southwestern US. 


The Las Cruces form of Allium macropetalum.

Most Alliums are very easy from seed- they need a few months of winter to wake the little seeds for spring germination and a couple years in a pot before being blooming size.  They sleep fine through the summer in their pots in the West, better than most bulbs that get too dry or fry or rot.  Mountain and alpine species are the easiest, and desert/steppe species can be a little trickier (or not)- but you don’t know until you try. Throwing the seed strait into your garden is even easier. Pests and grazers will usually avoid eating them. So I encourage any hikers and naturalists out there to look for their local Allium- they are usually secretive cherubs and harbingers of spring- and collect some seeds and welcome them home in your native garden.

Sunday, March 1, 2020

Power Plantlists on Request

From the Colorado Natives in Landscaping conference, hosted by the Colorado Native Plant Society. It was a lovely event with a great crowd of 400; I learned a lot yesterday about green roofs, insects, and seed biology.

As requested by someone in the room, here are the handful of short plant lists from species that were in the slides as they responded to specific locations.

Julie’s Yard: 
Galleta grass (Pleuraphis jamesii)
(grow direct from seed, not plants)
Yucca faxoniana x rostrata
Artemisia cf. frigida (asian form?)
Atraphaxis sp.
Ptelia trifoliata, Quercus turbinella
(all unirrigated)
Shaeralcea monroana

Only surviver from windy weed disaster:
Giant Sacatongrass (Sporobolus wrightii)
Ephedra equisetina


Happy in Gravel garden: 
Zinnia grandiflora,
Rhus trilobata ‘Autumn Ember’
Opuntia phaecantha
Stanleya pinnata
Cylindropuntia spp.
Berlandiera lyrata


A nice dry, reliable, colorful, long-lived simple palette:
Prairie Zinnia (Z. grandiflora)
Jones’ Bluestar (Amsonia jonesii)
Alkali dropseed (Sporobolus airoides)
Woodward Juniper (PlantSelect)
Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa)

Use bareroot planting and temporary irrigation…


My pet fav Unirrigated shade tree: 
Western Soapberry (Sapindus drumondii)
Also: hackberry, netleaf hackberry,

Meadows:
Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis)

A full landscape with very very very salty soil:
Fourwing (Atriplex canescens)
Winterfat (K. lanata)
Babby rabbitbrush, Ephedras x3,
Amelanchier utahensis
Cylindroputnia kleniii
No big sagebrush!
Artemisia filifolia (sand sage)
Cupressus arizonica


Great to fill in by seed in bare dirt/gravel:
Penstemon eatonii, P. palmeri
Baileya multiradiata
Gaillardia aristata
Sphaeralcea monroana (best /reliable sp)
Berlandieria lyrata (Chocolat daisy)

Superdry southfacing slope in GJ:
Nolina microcarpa
Babby rabbitbrush
Sand sage
Coyote Gourd (Cucurbita foetidissam)
Grusonia clavata
Alkali dropseed

Specialties from seed for gravel and rock gardens:
Hymenoxys scaposa and caespitosa,
Castilleja integra

Dry (unwatered shade)
Nolina greenei, N. microcarpa
Ephedra viridis, teorreaya, equisentina, nebrodensis, major.
Mahonia repens (best with a little water/snow/shade/North)
Yucca baccata, harrimaniae (yes really)
Alkali dropseed (S. airoides)

More Great plants get introduced over time:
Baby/Miniature  Rabbitbrush (Ericameria nauseosa v nauseosa)
Letterman’s Ironweed (Vernonia lettermanii)
future: Manfreda maculosa

Plant/Seed Sources:
Harlequin Gardens, Boulder
High Plains Environmental Center, Fort Collins
Chelsea Nursery, Grand Junction
Southwest Seed, Dolores, CO
Western Native Seed, CO
High Country Gardens (.com)
Granite Seed (.com)
Prairie Nursery (.com), WI

Wholesale:
Wildthings: Pueblo, CO
Fort Collins Wholesale CO
Bluebird Nursery, NE

Wednesday, February 19, 2020

A Real Life Crevice Garden Formula, version 1.0

The following is an email to Hamish Brown, a wonderful New Zealand plantsman whom I’m working with to build a crevice garden at the Christchurch Botanic. I realized that his prompts and my responses became a very useful and succinct formula to the secrets of creating a crevice garden. Stay tuned in March and see how the garden turns out! (All photos courtesy of Brown)



Dear Hamish;

Site:
My gut says to pick the sunnier spot away from the trees (their shade and root competition and leaf drop,) unless in the context of the rockery’s current collections, it is most lacking plants or sites for cool saxatile plants from shadier/drier/forested places.


Tonnage/amt of stone:
I just came up with a formula for stone weight needed- it’s been needed forever and every project/stone is so different, everyone has always just eyeballed a guess! -Including me, for some 40 crevice gardens over the years… Anyway: I have figured 4-6 tons (american) for a 100 square foot unit/area.  Which is 3.5-5.5 tonnes per 9.23 sq meters.  The range is wide because granite can weigh almost double what a light sandstone does. Further complicating the range is that very flat stone buried deeply will use up so much more than more shallowly buried, chunky or less-plate like stone. Third complication is that a flat-topography garden (like a paved patio) will use much less stone than that of a high-mounded one which literally has much greater surface area. This is the reason I’ve been dragging my feet so badly that it’s just a blank page in the manuscript of our book on crevice gardens!
Anyway, I hope that is a little helpful and not overwhelming.

Thanks so much for organizing the timings and roles for this project.

On enlarging the planned crevice garden:
You talked about going larger- perhaps at our Friday morning meeting (I can have looked at the site and prepared some data/ideas for the group to work with) we can talk about the design of the site, deciding if that is the case, we  can design it in such a way for it to be the first stage of a larger exhibit- I am more than happy to create drawings and notes for this and lend support for a future person executing it. There are also some tricks we can use to ensure that a new feature blends into the existing garden without being a sore grey thumb. 

Staged build has worked well for other private/public gardens because it allows them to adjust soil mix/design informed by how things worked in early phases- for example, if the soil mix turns out to be no good for most plants, the rest of the garden can then use a better choice. Or, if you find that the plants you aimed to grow only truly prosper on just a north aspect, the future phases of garden design can change so as to maximize north aspects, and so on. This has been most helpful in areas with zero history of crevice gardening and when we had no idea how crevice/soil and local climate would interact. I guess, to make a long story short- a phased build lets one test out and dip a toe in the water before diving deep and committing to certain specifications. 

I’m happy to build as large as we can in the time I’m there, too, should ya’ll need it.


Rock type/size:
Hamish, that quarry is  delicious. Is this New Zealand’s greywacke hard sandstone? It has superb character. It looks somewhat basaltic/rhyolite in shape.  Mmm, love those irregular but sharp shapes.

You are right in seeking out different sizes. I like to use a full spectrum from largest to smallest, with no discernable size being obviously dominant or scarce. The largest one could be whatever we as a group (or armed with a tractor!) can move- maybe 1 m at the longest measurement.   If you can, make sure there is a gradient of sizes down from the biggest to smallest. Each size doesn’t have to be equally represented, just enough to be seen. In a perfect world, we’d have some little chunks (maybe 10% or less of the total rock) that are the size of the gravel topdressing to be used- a perfect gradient of size with no missing sizes will unify a garden in a magic and powerful “je ne sais quoi” sort of way. If the rock is hauled dirty and bulk in a dump-truck, the little bits appear are the result of rocks breaking when they are loaded/dumped.  Convenient. Other times, little chunk are impossible- and that’s ok, too. 

You are lucky to have a loader to pick them up! If there is a part of the pile with very rectangular, brick-ish stone, avoid those- let stonemasons have that. Irregular edges (which are the faces that show in a finished garden) and irregularly parallel cleavage make for the best gardens.  

I see thick chunky guys and slab/plate-like shapes in that pile. Go for a mix and with intermediates. 

Generally, gather more than you think we need.

Lastly- after all this thinking and planning, we’re going to organically wing it and it’s going to be great!

Very much looking forward to this!
Kenton

Monday, January 27, 2020

Spotlight on three: Easy, Pink, and Rare-ish.

These three species are very easy to grow, but also a little rare in rock gardens. 

My favorite combo.

Erigeron carringtoniae is adaptable, long-lived for me, quick from seed, and a punk with dyed pink hair. I think John Stireman says this is his favorite fleabane.  (There are about 200 species) 
That's like if Paul McCartney told you what his favorite blues album is.  
Will you heed the tastes of a man who has grown more species of Erigernon than God?


My favorite Prickly-Thrift is Acantholimon puburulum ssp. longiscapum.  Nothing pollinates it, so I have to take cuttings. The decent-sized flowers do not open flat, but they are held on scapes. 
I'm a sucker for scapes.
It's softball sized.
 Even the anthocyanic winter color is novel for a prickley-thift.




Asperula boissieri

You've probably weeded Gallium odoratum from some garden or another until you could scream. Most of us have. But this relative- alpine woodruff - is a slowly widening clump of easy bliss.  
Asperula boissieri

You can even divide it. Easily.  Not true of most great bun and cushion rock plants.   You won't be able to find it under the flowers. Put it on your list to find for 2020. If you can't find it, go with Asperula gussonii. I actually like it better. 




Wednesday, January 22, 2020

Is This Greenhouse too Good to be Real?


We all dream about having a greenhouse.

But most of us don't.
Because they are a pain in the arse to maintain, expensive, and really expensive to heat and cool.  
That sucks.

The average American greenhouse costs four times as much to heat and cool, (per square foot) than a house.  -THAN A HOUSE.  Do you love paying heating bills as much as I do?

But.
There is an alternative.
I'm dubious of alternatives. There is always some dark side, some sharp pin for every ballon of inflated expectations for some granola-hippy-pseudo-scientific "solution" to lots of things.  So I research the crap out of anything before I commit to it...
But.

I'd heard about Passive Solar Greenhouses a bit, and then a friend gave me a book on them.  
Full of math, statistics, studies, physics (no metaphysics!) and living examples.  A great book. 
I'll save you the research. Even though all it did was show me how to build a greenhouse myself, it goes in the short list of books that changed the way I do things forever.  

Anyhow.  After several visits to functioning solar greenhouses, a few notebook drawings, a little math, a one-year trial with a little cold frame, and one year later, we built one last fall.


And DAMN it works. I know exactly what it's doing because I'm measuring it closely. 


It took a little extra thought to plan and build, and it is paying off already in trouble it doesn't give me. Just for fun, mine has no supplemental heat, just to see what it can do. 

Dry statistics:
7 feet x 16 feet = 112 square feet  (2m x5m = 10 m2)
About $500 in materials. $250 of that was insulation.
2 weeks of casually building it for half days.
2 layers of thick plastic (about $80 each)
30 degrees Fahrenheit (17C) warmer inside than outside on most coldest nights.
35 minimum, 82 max temp, so far. (1C to 28 C)
40-60F normal temp range. 
$0 heating cost.


Critical details: 
-Wood framing (because I almost know how to do that)
-Well sealed with weather-stripping.
-Faces South.
-Well insulated north wall, part of roof, and any non-clear surface.
-Foam insulation buried underground between outdoor and indoor dirt.
-Wax-powered vent openers to cool it. (vents equal about 20% of clear surface)
-450 gallons of thermal mass water inside (4 gallons per square foot)
-This design does not employ a ground-to-earth heat exchange. It could be made warmer!
-No electricity or wiring required to operate. None.
-No lock on the door so that a would-be thief finds it easy to discover there are no weed plants in it.

It is ideal for cool-growing plants.  It didn't take much dialing-in to make it self-regulate its own temperature.   A person could add a little heat to grow warmth-loving things in winter, and surely at great efficiency.  

We planted veg seed on thanksgiving. What I've heard and read and experienced about mid-winter day-length had me expect that nothing would actively grow during New Year's day. 
I was wrong!  We've got lettuce!

It makes me wonder why this isn't standard.  This will pay itself off for me in just one winter season. It's freaking magic. It gives me sanity, pleasure, and a place to start early propagation of rock garden plants. It was worth it. 

I know that a lot of greenhouse failures come down to inappropriate design for climate, or that owners didn't stick with it just a tad longer to iron out the wrinkles. 

In summer, I'll take the door off its hinges and throw a shade-cloth over it if necessary to keep it cooler.  I'm fascinated to see it how it operates in summer, when I'll use it to push warm-loving perennial and woody crops like Yucca and Soapberry.

Things I learned I'd share as advice to anyone building one:

-Build it so the inside layer of plastic film is sealed well, if not better than the outside one, because that is the one that will get condensation on it that you don't want to trap next to the wood.
-Build it keeping in mind you want to caulk, strip, or otherwise seal it as airtight as possible. This is why most designs use traditional home building materials: for a good seal.
-If your vents/doors are wood, frame them so temp/humidity don't warp them out of square.
-Shade of a tree is not such a bad thing.
-Leave yourself room to compost in it as passive heat. I watch my outdoor compost steaming and want to capture it for heat in winter!
-Calling before you dig "811" won't help you not cut your own poorly buried electric services! 
-It would seem like there is not enough light, but by all observation of plants, there is.

The possibility to use recycled or reclaimed components is endless.  I had very little myself. Using Double-pane sliding glass doors would be awesome.

So if you have seriously considered a greenhouse but are a real or frugal human being (or don't want to ironically use lots of fossil fuel to heat your greenhouse), seriously consider a passive solar greenhouse. Well planned, you can harvest the joy of your dreams and not suffer the complications.

Science!

Tuesday, January 21, 2020

Lectures/Programs 2020




Feb 29: 
Reality Check: When natives do and don't work for landscaping and gardens.
Landscaping with Colorado Native Plants Conference, Auraria Campus, Denver.

March 12: Crevice Gardens or TBD
Christchurch Botanic, New Zealand

March 19: Crevice Gardens or TBD
Dunedin, New Zealand

March 20: Crevice Gardens or TBD
Invercargill, New Zealand

April 23: Reality Check: Renovating an existing yard into a xeriscape and actually succeeding.
Waterwise Seminar for Resource Central in Golden, CO

June 9: TBD
Plant Select Annual Meeting, Denver, CO

June 12: Crevice Gardens
New Mexico Master Gardener Conference, (June 11-13) Albuquerque, NM

July sometime: Crevice Garden talk/workshop, with Paul Spriggs,
Far Reaches Farm, Port Townsend, WA

Sept between the 3rd and 6th: Rock Garden Workshop
Inverewe National Trust Garden, Scotland

Sept 9-11, Crevice Gardens & Hardy Cacti and Succulents: Beyond Sedum
Urban Growth Conference: Perennials Plantings Beyond Nature. Malmö, Sweden.